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Tuesday, October 21, 2008

SanDisk SDCFX3-2048-901 2 GB Extreme III CompactFlash Card (Retail Package)

SanDisk Extreme III CompactFlash is designed for serious professional photographers who demand one of the fastest, most rugged, and most durable memory cards on the market. Professional photographers who work under less than ideal conditions expect more from a flash memory card. More speed. More performance. More reliability. SanDisk's new Extreme III card delivers everything you want plus a whole lot more! That's because only SanDisk Extreme III memory cards feature innovative ESP Technology for the fastest speeds and highest performance. ESP stands for "Enhanced Super-Parallel Processing". Simply put, it means you are getting the fastest read/write speeds available - an amazing minimum 20MB per second sequential read and write speed - speed you'll definitely appreciate whenever you find yourself shooting and storing pictures in harsh environments, extreme temperatures or at high altitudes. Every SanDisk Extreme III CompactFlash card comes with RescuePRO so you can recover images, documents, mail, video, music - just about any digital file, with ease. Built with leading-edge media recovery algorithms, RescuePro lets you preview recoverable data before you try to retrieve it. With RescuePRO's unique recovery algorithm for MPEG audio and MPEG video recovery (MPEG-1/2/3) what you see, and what you hear, is what you can recover. Data recovery software-ensures your photos will always be there (even if you delete them accidentally) Dedicated, priority technical support hotline for direct customers of SanDisk Extreme products Included travel case keeps your memory cards organized Lifetime li warranty
Customer Review: Good cards, but poor warranty service from Sandisk
I have five of these Sandisk Extreme III 2GB CF cards. They are very fast and have mostly been reliable (hence the three-star review). However, there is more to this product than merely the item itself. The other question is how efficiently the manufacturer handles things in the event of failure. I recently had one of these cards fail and I have been disappointed by Sandisk's warranty service. The situation was very straightforward. The card failed. I lost only one photo. No data needed to be recovered. I had all the information available, including a copy of my receipt to prove that I am the original owner. After two weeks, I am still sending follow-up messages to Sandisk asking them for a return authorization, and getting no response. Sandisk has not actually declined to replace the card -- but their process, which was already rather slow, has led to a dead-end. Several years ago, I had a Lexar CF card fail. It was a quite different experience. They replaced the card promptly. I recognize that all electronics products can fail -- but the real test is how well the manufacturer responds when that happens. My next CF card will be a Lexar, not a Sandisk.
Customer Review: Great Card
While I have had many compact flash cards of varying sizes this card for the size and price was a much better bargain then those of the others. A lot of storage with a little price. Never had an fault or error and don't think I ever will.


If you care to examine and look carefully at some of the photos on buildings, you may realize that they tend to slant backward or have the falling over effects. You might think that this is purposefully created, or you are not bothered by it at all. Well, in fact, this is a common problem when taking pictures on buildings. This effect is termed as converging verticals. That is, the verticals lines will converge if you project them to the top. You can see an example of this effect here.

How does this happen? Usually, when you are faced with a tall building, in order to capture the full height, the natural tendency is to tilt your camera upwards to capture the top of the building. And in particular, this effect is common when you are using a wide angle lens. That is, the top of the building looks small while the base of the building looks big.

However, this distortion may not be a bad thing if you use it correctly. What you can do is, to exaggerate the effect by having more distortion. You can do this by going close to the building and point the camera upwards. But on the other hand, if you have only a slight distortion, it may give you worse effect.

Let us come back to the point to have straight standing building shot. The first step is to move away from the building and followed by having your camera straight. However, this option may not be away possible as there is a limit to the distant you can move backward. Nevertheless, try using this technique first.

Secondly, you can use a software called Elements 5 to correct this. However, this can only correct slight distortion. If your photo has verticals that are distorted too much, the software cannot do much.

The third option is to use a special shift lens. But this is an expensive option. This specialized lens uses a mechanism to shift the position of the lens independent of the camera. This allows you to keep the camera vertical but still include much more of the top of the building.

Above are three suggested techniques you can use when taking building photography to keep them straight. Explore them and see the effect yourself.

John Peace enjoys photography and maintained a website providing information on photography. He invites you to visit his website, Freelance Photography to learn more about this exciting hobby. You can even make a living out of it at home! Believe it or not. Or you can visit the link at: http://www.internetbizcenter.com/photography/index.htm

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Monday, October 20, 2008

Canon Digital IXUS 500 Duracell Battery (Duracell Battery)

Canon Digital IXUS 500 Duracell Battery. This is a 3.7 Volt, 1000 mAh, Li-Ion Battery . Dimensions: 1.90 x 1.20 x 0.40. 100% OEM compatible.


Recently I was asked by a subscriber of mine in New York State as to how he could improve his daylight digital photos to create a more even light across his digital photos. I suggested that in digital photography there were many tools such as a polariser, a Neutral Density Filter and some other fancy tools.

He said I mean after the pictures has been taken. I really want my digital photography to turn out a lot better than what I am getting.

What he was talking about was a digital photography method called post-editing. Post means after and editingwell you know what that means. And in digital photography as opposed to photography you can edit your photos so much easily than traditional film photography.

What I advised Grant was that he had a few options. He could try editing his digital photography images by increasing or decreasing the light values via the Histogram. The Histogram is probably one of your best friends in digital photography that you could ask for as far as post editing goes. In a nutshell you simply open up your digital photos in Adobe Photoshop. Then once you have done that you click on image up the top menu bar. Once the menu box has come up you then click on adjust and then levels and up comes the Histogram.

The Histogram will display the light values from the brightest part of your digital photo to the darkest parts. It displays this light & dark information in the form of a graph. It looks something youd see on the stock market to measure the trends of stock over a certain period of time. You might see thin lines or a block of black shadow with peaks and troughs.

The right side of the reading of the Histogram represents the brighter colours. The left side represents the darker colours. You can pull the brightness down to create a more even light over the picture if you have several overexposed parts of your digital photo. Or alternatively if there are too many underexposed parts of your digital photo you can increase the brightness.

You can increase the brightness significantly by pulling the slider to the left. And you can do the opposite with the sliders to the right. By pulling the far left or far right slider, youll be increasing the contrast. By pulling the middle slider either side, you will have increased brightness or darkness but not so much contrast. Youll see that this is an incredibly simple yet powerful post editing digital photography technique.

If you have a digital photo that is underexposed with the handy Histogram you can simply change the luminance output levels. As a result youll create a more evenly lit digital photo.

Happy shooting!

Amy Renfrey

If you want to learn more about how to take your photos from average to superb, then just go to http://www.DigitalPhotographySuccess.com

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